Unwelcome Guests: Roseslug Sawfllies

If your rose leaves start to look as though they have become dried and scorched, a closer look may reveal the culprit, the larvae of the roseslug sawfly.  The common name is something of a misnomer:  this pest, which resembles a small caterpillar, is neither a slug nor a fly, nor a true caterpillar.

There are three main varieties of roseslug sawflies but if you live where we do in northeastern New England, you are probably dealing with Endelomyia aethiops. The good news is that this particular pest, unlike it's kissing (um, chewing) cousins, has only one life cycle each gardening season.  Once you conquer the current infestation, you're all set for the season.  Your roses stand an excellent chance of re-foliating and recovering from the havoc it causes.  And if you take steps to mitigate re-infestation next year, you will likely be able to avoid most of the problem you're facing now entirely.

Identifying the Pest

Sawfly larva;  it resembles but is not a true caterpillar.

First about the bug:  The pest you're dealing with is actually the larva or maggot form of a small  black wasp that you'd probably mistake for a  fly if you even noticed it at all.

Since the adult wasp neither eats nor bites nor stings,  it probably doesn't leave much of an impression on you.  But it leaves quite an impression on your roses.

The adult female sawfly wasp uses her very sharp, knife-like ovipositor to make a tiny cut into the flesh of the rose leaf and sometimes (although rarely), into the cane or a stem of a rose shrub.  She then inserts her tiny eggs right inside the tissue of the rose leaf.  If you are very observant and have excellent vision, you might see small irregularities along the edges of the leaves where the eggs have been inserted into the leaf but quite honestly, my vision is so poor, when they started attacking our roses, until the larvae were well into their feeding frenzy, I was blissfully unaware that they were even there.

The eggs hatch into tiny, clear maggots.  Once they begin eating the green, fleshy part of the leaves, in addition to the damage on the leaves which quickly becomes devastatingly obvious, you will notice what looks like small green caterpillars with orange heads.  The green color of the larva's body is actually the green leaf material filling their GI tract and visible through their clear body  They max out at 3/4 to an inch at most in length. Thus, once they become really noticeable, they are well on the way to devouring your rose's leaves.  Voracious eaters, they will eat through the fleshy portions of the rose leaf leaving a web of veins behind, hence the papery thin, brown look of the leaves.  Multiply one by tens or hundreds, and they can munch their way through your rose garden in a matter of days to weeks.

A hallmark of the roseslug sawfly is that it is species specific -- it only eats roses, and for the most part, it only affects the leaves.  Generally, the buds and blooms themselves are unaffected, and it doesn't bother neighboring plantings.

Although there is significant damage to the rose leaves, the heuchera and violets are completely unaffected. Buds at the top of the frame and the bloom that is almost out of the frame at the bottom were unaffected.

The larvae (maggots) resemble small caterpillars and are usually 3/4 inch to no more than an inch in length at maturity.

They can affect part or all of a plant, adjacent plants, but the buds and blooms are usually fine.

After the larvae finishes this stage of the life cycle, they drop off the leaf and onto the ground where they burrow into the soil to form a cocoon like case where they pupate. They overwinter underground and hatch in the spring to start the cycle all over again.

Control of the Pest

Although the rose shrub may appear nearly destroyed, chances are you can not only save it but also rid your plant and rose bed of the problem relatively easily.

The first step is to recognize the problem early on and treat it quickly.  IF you catch it early, you can effectively halt the problem with relatively little damage to your roses.

The way to control the problem is to interrupt the life cycle of the wasp at every stage of its development.  Whereas Endelomyia aethiops only has one full life cycle per season, if this is the particular pest you are dealing with, that is relatively easy to accomplish.

If you catch the problem when only one rose or a few leaves on one or two roses are affected, remove the affected leaves and don't compost them -- they should be incinerated, put with the trash, or treated chemically as you don't want the larvae to pupate in your compost pile where they will develop into wasps that will attack your roses next spring.  If you aren't the squeamish type, you may simply need to pick off the offending maggots and squish them so they don't pupate.  (I'm squeamish.)  Cutting off affected leaves that you think still harbor eggs or tiny maggots is also helpful, although you may be well past that stage when you discover the problem.  Remember, proper disposal of infested material is a major part of controlling this pest.

Spraying the rose and the soil with insecticidal soap - even the organic products - is generally effective.  It's essential to treat the soil as well as the shrub so that the pupating wasps are also killed. The granular and liquid Bayer products for rose care with systemic insecticide take care of all of the different life cycles of this pest and I recommend them if you have a heavy infestation and can safely use them in your garden.  For the most part, the common insecticides (including those labeled as organic) that are effective against typical rose pests will be effective against the roseslug; however, do keep in mind that since this is not a true caterpillar, "Bt" (Bacillus thuringiensis), which is effective against most caterpillars that affect roses will not be affective for this pest.  Pyrethrins are also effective but should not be used near fish or if you have cats as pets.

We generally don't use chemicals in our garden as we abut a conservation area and we also have a large koi pond, but our all-natural garden protocol is usually very effective in keeping these pests in check.  Early detection and prompt spraying minimizes the problem.  This spring, our usual early-in-the-eason spraying was delayed due to rain in May and the maggots began feeding during our vacation week away.  We returned to find a full blown infestation and so we had to play catch-up in dealing with it last month.  It meant spraying when we returned and then again after  3-4 days to be sure we caught all of the maggots.  That was followed by staggered pruning to give the shrubs a chance to re-foliate.

Here is the spray that we recommend for a natural approach: 

In a one gallon sprayer, mix the following:

2 ounces Neem Oil Concentrate, or amount recommended on label; 

   check the label as different concentrations are mixed differently (Neem is optional but I recommend it)

4 ounces of canola oil (any brand, canola cooking oil;  other vegetable oils are okay but not as effective)

2 ounces of all natural dish liquid - Seventh Generation is one brand that is available at Lowe’s, 

   Shaw’s, Albertson’s, Wal-Mart;  Palmolive also has a clear, all-natural dish soap; pure castile soap or any all natural 
   dish liquid will do)

2 Tablespoons of Baking Soda 

2 ounces garlic oil (optional, see recipe below, can be substituted for canola above) 

Add water to make one gallon of solution.  When spraying, shake the sprayer frequently to keep mixture homogenous.

Garlic Oil:   To make your own garlic oil, peel most of the outer paper covering from a medium sized garlic bulb and separate the cloves.  It is not necessary to peel the cloves.  In a a small electric food chopper, finely mince the garlic and blend with 4 ounces of canola or soybean oil.  Let sit in refrigerator for at least 48 hours and then strain through cheese cloth or a fine mesh strainer.  This can be made in larger quantities and kept refrigerated for several weeks.

To Spray:   Spray shrubs liberally when there is no rain expected for 24 hours, being sure to spray top and bottom of leaves and also spray soil surrounding plant.  If using Neem, spray at dawn or dusk . If we spray in the morning, we spray at about 5:30 AM.   If we spray in the evening, after the beginning of May, we wait until 7 PM or later. This is necessary because Neem is toxic to honey bees and butterflies.  

Follow-up:  In the fall, be sure to spray with horticultural oil or canola.  In early spring, before roses leaf out, we spray the soil in our beds with a 10% solution of ammonia (effective against many pests that are harbored in the soil) and all plants with the above mixture as soon as the first leaves begin to appear. 

Care of Affected Roses

The damage  wrought by the sawfly is localized and the rose itself is not infected systemically.  Once the rose has been effectively treated, removing the affected leaves and pruning heavily is done as much for cosmetic and aesthetic reasons as for stimulating new growth of healthy leaves and canes.

When pruning, it's important to leave as much intact leaf material on the plant as possible as even damaged leaves produce critical nutrients and energy that the rose needs to continue growing.  We usually prune in 2-3 stages, depending on how badly the rose is affected.  Carefully dispose of leaf litter and prunings as composting affected leaves that still have eggs or larvae will only carry the problem into the next growing season.  Small amounts of cuttings make excellent fuel for your chiminera or decorative fire pit.

Once the affected leaves are pruned away, the shrub should grow and thrive, but TLC in the form of some extra compost, compost tea, and fertilizing at regular intervals will help the shrub to re-foliate quickly and regain its vigor.  In areas where the species of wasp has multiple growth cycles in a single growing season, repeated serious infestations can weaken a rose to the point where it might not survive a difficult winter or other harsh weather conditions, or it may so weaken it that it is susceptible to other pests and fungal infections.  That said, infestation with the rose-slug sawfly in and of itself is generally not lethal to the shrub.

Only a month has passed since we first encountered this problem and the roses have almost completely recovered.  Steve just pruned Macy's Pride, which is shown in several of the above photographs, for the third and final time.  With aggressive spraying of the ground and shrubs in the spring with oil and ammonia, we hope to avoid a repeat of this spring's attack of the rose-slugs.

Garden Pests: Those Dreaded Red Lily Leaf Beetles

When I saw my first red lily leaf beetle (RLLB),  Lilioceris lilii, in 2006, I had no idea how much devastation they would ultimately wreak in my garden. Without toxic chemicals, it is very difficult to keep them in check, and since we pride ourselves on not using chemical pesticides in our gardens, it sometimes seems as if we have been fighting a losing battle. [Read more about our methods HERE.]

The RLLB is an oval beetle with bright red elytra and hindwings. You can't mistake it for the sweet and helpful lady bug. Lady bugs are smaller, rounder, spotted, and have a larger head in proportion to the body than the RLLB.

The lady bug (L) should not be confused with the Red Lily Leaf  Beetle (R)

The RLLB has a special fondness for Asiatic lilies and fritilaria, so much so, that I have dug up most of ours and relegated the remains of them to the compost pile.

Once one of my favorite flowers, we had Asiatics covering the entire middle of the island that surrounds our mailbox and interspersed them with the daylilies as well.

But when lilies aren't around, contrary to popular opinion, the RLLB's will attack other plants and I have found them munching away on daylilies (which are not true lilies and are not usually one of their favored plants to attack), peonies, phlox, and roses.

I usually try to stay ahead of them with aggressive spraying beginning in April, but with so much rain this spring, that didn't happen and we are now paying the price for that. Since we have only a few lilies remaining, for the first time ever, this spring I was dismayed to find them attacking one of our clematis.

An unpleasant find: red lily leaf beetles on our Sweet Autumn clematis

The most eco-safe method we've come up with to deal with these pests is frequent spraying with Neem and also spraying the soil around the plants with a 10% solution of ammonia. The ammonia kills larvae that may have fallen down onto the soil. Some of the Bayer products reportedly kill RLLB's on contact, but I have not found that to be the case. And since the pesticides in the Bayer products are toxic to fish, we can't use them here in any event.

One key to successful spraying is to spray under as well as on top of the leaves. The RLLB deposits its eggs on the under side of the leaves where they hatch into voraciously hungry larva that escape notice because they cover themselves with dung.

Not only do the larvae do more outright damage to the plants than the adult beetles, if you don't adequately deal with them, you'll be dealing with more of these little nasties in short order. First they'll eat until they defoliate your lily and then they'll lay more eggs and well... the process continues. Relentlessly. But be sure to use Neem either early in the morning or later in the evening, before or after the bees will be out collecting pollen and nectar as it is toxic to bees..

I mix the Neem according to the directions on the container and then add 1/4 cup of canola oil and 3 Tablespoons of clear dish soap (like Seventh Generation) per half gallon. I rarely need more than a half gallon of spray at a time, since our lily collection is all but gone at this point, but I spray everything around the lilies, since my experience is that these hungry horrors will eat anything and everything if the lilies aren't readily available.

One final note:  Picking them off the plant and killing them is easier said than done. When you attempt to pick them off, they curl up reflexively and drop onto the ground under the plant, back side down with their black belly facing up making them impossible to see. I've had a bit of luck sliding a sheet of white paper on the ground under the plant with sticky tape attached to it (sticky side up) or even smeared with petroleum gel or thick shampoo. (The cardboard from pantyhose works well for this). Shake the leaf or knock them off with a stick or tweezers and they get stuck in the petrolatum or tape. Fold the mess up into a plastic garbage bag and you're done.

Garden Pests: Tackling Ticks with Natural, Dog-Friendly Sprays

 

Brown dog tick

Whether you're talking about the tiny black deer ticks, Ixodes scapularis, or the larger brown wood or dog ticks, Dermacentor variabilis, ticks are more than just a gardening nuisance. Carriers of tick born illnesses such as Lyme Disease, several relapsing fevers, ehrlichiosis, and tularemia to name but a few, they are a significant health hazard to both people and pets.

Where we live in coastal Massachusetts, ticks are a particularly serious problem. And even though the diseases caused by ticks are serious, the problems associated with tick repellents are equally problematic, never mind the fact that they aren't completely effective in any event.

Emily was successfully treated for Lyme disease.

Most chemical tick control agents (such as Biospot or Frontline), do little or nothing to actually repel a tick from climbing onto your dog and nothing for the ticks that you carry in yourself on your clothing. They kill ticks that climb onto your dog but that can take up to 48 hours. Even utilizing one of those products, we found ourselves removing several ticks a day from each dog, and it wasn't unusual for a tick to fall off the dog onto us or our bed.

With one dog already having had a bout of Lyme Disease, we are quite aggressive in the treatment of our pets and yard for ticks. Most "natural" repellants that are commercially available consist of essential oils in an oily or watery base. I find that witch hazel makes a very nice base for these kinds of mixtures; there is no oil to stain clothing and it dries nicely on the dogs as well as us.

My recipe is simple: In a clean spray bottle, combine one bottle (16 ounces) witch hazel and one small bottle (about 15 ml) of each of the following essential oils: oil of eucalyptus, oil of lemon grass, and oil of rose geranium. The oils will float on top of the witch hazel so shake the bottle gently to mix before spraying.

I spray the dogs with special attention to their legs, tails, bellies, chest, and under their chin twice a week and that goes a long way toward preventing ticks from hitchhiking into the house in their fur. We still check them carefully twice daily, but the number of ticks we're finding has been reduced to one or two a week on all of the dogs, down from 3-4 daily on each dog.

I also recently obtained a homeopathic tick repellant from our holistic vet that is added to the dog's water every time you change the water in the bowl. Since we have been somewhat inconsistent about using it every time we change water (we have several water bowls, several people changing the water, and I keep the drops in the kitchen so they are often overlooked), I can't verify that it has made a substantial difference, but I have to acknowledge that it also may be playing a role as a tick repellant as well.

We also add oil of rose geranium to our general garden spray at least once a month. That, along with home made garlic oil, helps control the number of ticks and fleas in the environment; we have yet to have any issues at all with fleas and we do notice a dramatic decrease in the number of ticks we observe on our dogs, on us, and in our home when we spray on a regular basis. You can find our entire protocol here.

But ticks still manage to find their way into the house. We check the dogs daily for stowaways and we check ourselves when we come in from gardening. Light colored clothing makes them easier to spot but not infrequently we will spy one crawling on the furniture or floor, most definitely having traveled indoors on our clothing.

A handy way to quickly trap and permanently secure them when you spot them crawling on clothing, furniture or the floor is with adhesive tape. They readily adhere to the tape and when you fold the tape over on itself, they are permanently imprisoned and can be tossed into the regular trash.

Stuck to the tape, the tip can't extricate itself from the adhesive.

Fold the tape over on itself and dispose of the tick in the trash.

It's a quick, hands off way to quickly trap and dispose of a tick permanently.

For ticks that attach themselves to the dogs, we keep a small jar with several ounces of cooking oil and a pair of heavy large tweezers handy. After removing the tick, they are dropped into the oil where they smother. Every few weeks, the jar is disposed of in the trash and a "new" jar prepared.